Spare our hotels from Michelin madness

🏊‍♀️ In-Seine decision | 🍆 Dr Ruth | 🤥 99% win

The great escape

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Cap d’Antibes, c 1965. Archive Photos/Getty

Spare our hotels from Michelin madness

In recent weeks, the world of travel has been “roiled by a surprising innovation”, says Sean Thomas in The Spectator: plans to introduce “Michelin stars for hotels”. This cannot end well. I have encountered an awful lot of Michelin-recommended food, and what I’ve learnt is this: “because the tucker is predictably prissy, fussy and elaborate, designed to please Michelin inspectors”, it is almost guaranteed to be entirely forgettable. Except for the fact that you are required to pay “several trillion quid”, and the knowledge that there is a chef out back whose life will be ruined if he loses a star.

Imagine all that “nerdy, linen-measuring awfulness” applied to hotels. Miserable. The joy of good hotels is that they excel in entirely different ways. They have a “special character, a soul, a story, and maybe a dark poetic bar”. Yes, some of the best are “five-star, extremely pricey – and splendidly agreeable”. I was once loitering in the lobby of the revered Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, when a concierge approached and said: “Are you looking for the spa, sir?” And here’s the thing: “I was.” Even though I was dressed normally and it was noon. “That is a great hotel.” But so is the one-star Glacier Lodge Eqi in Greenland, which overlooks the world’s second most active glacier. A night at the Eqi is like “sleeping next to God if He had dyspepsia”, constantly “grumbling and calving bergs”. And so is that multi-coloured hotel at the bottom of the Copper Canyon, north Mexico, which seems to be run by “super-friendly artists on acid”. The beauty of hotels is that they are so “richly multifarious”. So I say to hoteliers: “ignore this fastidious French foolishness”. Let hotels be hotels.

Property

THE VILLAGE HOME This Grade II-listed house in Suffolk’s Bures St Mary has a smart façade of double-hung sash windows and a pilaster-flanked front door. Inside, the three-bedroom Georgian home has been carefully renovated, including a full-equipped kitchen with bespoke hardwood cabinetry and a Belfast sink. There is a wood-burning stove in the living room, and an established rose garden out the back. Bures train station is a 10-minute walk, with services to London Liverpool Street via Marks Tey in 70 minutes. The coast is a 45-minute drive. £590,000.

Heroes and villains

Pierre Suu/Getty

Hero
Anne Hidalgo, the mayor of Paris, for bravely taking a dip in the Seine to prove the water is clean enough for Olympic events. Swimming in the capital’s river has been banned since 1923 because of health risks, says The Guardian. In 1990, then mayor Jacques Chirac “promised to make it clean enough to swim in, but failed”. After a monumental clean-up effort ahead of the Games, which begin on Friday, the waters have finally been declared safe. Bravo!

Hero
Football fan Dan Thomas, for being so confident of England’s success in Sunday’s Euros final that he had a tattoo of the trophy and the words “England Euro 2024 Winners” inked on his leg several days before the big game. The 29-year-old data consultant insists he doesn’t regret it, and says he’ll just turn the four into an eight when England win the next tournament in 2028. It’s not a pretty sight, but if you really want to see it click here.

Hero
Paul Kagame, who swept to victory in the Rwandan elections this week with a huge and not in any way suspicious 99% of the vote. The 66-year-old strongman, who has led the country since 2000, may have slightly boosted his winning margin by banning his top rivals from running.

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Quoted

“There are two kinds of actors: actors that want to be famous, and liars.”
Famous actor Kevin Bacon

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